If your cabinets come in contact against a wall
With your brand new kitchen cabinets you’re prepared to take the next step. …..Installing the kitchen cabinets. Although the actual installation of Kitchen Cabinets isn’tall that hard the first essential step is to measure and map out the location where the cabinets will be. With the help of layout markings on the floor and walls and floors, it will not only aid you in cabinet layout and stud placement as well as aid in determining the places where adjustments and shims might be needed. Before we start, there are two things you’ll need to complete the project:
Pencil
Level or Laser Level or Laser
Drill
Tape Measure
Stud Finder
Clamps
1″ x 3″ Piece of wood (6′-8 inches of length) as well as an Inverted U-shaped frame (see the below notes for more details)
Shims
Screws (long enough to fit 1 1/2 deep into the studs)
A utility knife or a chisel
Marking Compass
An additional pair of hands (you may need to pay bribes to one of your acquaintances)
As I said in the previous paragraph you can choose for using an item 1 3′ x 1′ wood for installation or constructing frames to support your cabinet (I have included a photo of a frame that I have built below). It can be constructed of 2’x4’s and should be long enough to hold the wall’s bottom cabinets. If you intend to build multiple kitchens, I’d suggest the frame, however an individual piece of wood can be used for an event that is only once. In any situation, you’ll require someone else to help you install the kitchen.
In this instance, we purchased (RTA) Ready-to-assemble Cabinets for Kitchens at RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. Once the kitchen cabinets are put together, and we’re ready to begin marking the design lines. Many people begin starting with base cabinets but we’ll begin at the walls cabinets the first. There is no correct or incorrect method to begin, but I would rather begin by working on the upper cabinets first.
1. Make use of a level as well as a pencil, to trace a line parallel to the wall approximately 3 inches above the floor. Take a measurement down from the line from the floor and locate the floor’s high point (if there is one) and mark the line that is drawn at that point. From there, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a mark across the wall to mark what is the highest point of cabinet base.
2. Once you have the tops of the base cabinets marked, take a measurement to 19 1/2 inches, and draw a horizontal line along the wall to show the lower part of your wall cabinets. Mark each cabinet’s dimensions and position on the wall, to ensure that your initial layout is accurate.
3. Utilize a stud finder tool to find your wall’s studs. Utilize a pencil to mark the locations of the studs within 6 inches higher but below the lines that runs along the wall’s bottom cabinets. Create straight horizontal lines that are between the bottom and top marks to mark the center of the studs.
4. If you’ve chose to use the 1 3′ x 1′ lumber then this is the place you’ll put it (if you chose to use the U-shaped frame that will be in play after all the lines are drawn out). Install an interim 1′ x 3′ rail onto the wall by aligning the upper part of it to the line that runs along the lower edge of the cabinets. Connect it using three or four two-inch screws down the rail to walls studs.
5. After you have the line drawn now is the time to put in the kitchen cabinetry. We will begin by installing the corner cabinets (here is the place where an extra pair of hands will be required). Set the corner cabinet on the support rail for temporary use and let your assistant assist in holding the cabinet to keep it in place. Drill pilot holes into the solid cabinet’s back or support rail, and in the wall’s wall studs. Attach the cabinet to the wall with two screws long enough to reach the studs at least 1.5 inches. Examine the top of the cabinet to ensure level , and the front to determine if it is plumb. If you need to alter the placement, back the screws just a bit, and place the top shims are placed behind the cabinet in the studs’ locations. If the cabinet is level and level, push the screws in all the way and insert several more screws in each stud, to ensure it is attached securely on the wall.
6. Then we’ll begin installing the cabinets that are on opposite sides from the corner cabinet. After you’ve installed the cabinets make use of the clamps to attach each cabinet to its neighboring cabinet, and then verify the cabinets for plumb on your level. For faceframe cabinets, it’s best to drill two pilot holes of 1/8 inch through the faces of the frame and utilize screws. For frames that are not frameless and ready to assemble kitchen cabinets, we will put screws through the sides of the plywood and then use shims between them to make sure that they are a secure fit. Also, ensure that all cabinet surfaces are centered.
7. Once all wall cabinets are installed Install the corner or the end of the base cabinet. Make use of shims in order to make the cabinet level, and lift it up to the point that marks the top on the ground. Make sure the cabinet is completely level from front to rear and side to side and then secure it onto the wall’s studs. If there isn’t an angled corner cabinet or blind base cabinet on the corner, move the adjacent cabinet into place and then clamp the two units to each other. Use a filler strip as necessary to give the drawers and doors the space to close and open in a proper manner. If required tap shims beneath on the cabinets and in front of it to adjust the cabinet for levels and plumb.
8. Install screws into the back of cabinet (and shhims) to the wall’s studs. Remove any excess material from the shims by using a knife or chisel. Continue to connect adjacent cabinets this way connecting them in exactly the same way as you joined to the walls cabinets at step 6.
9. If your cabinets come in contact against a wall, it is possible that you will require the help of a filler strip in order to cover the final few inches. If you own customized cabinets, the cabinets ought to have been designed to cover this gap, however, if you’re using standard and RTA Cabinets for Kitchen Cabinets this strip might be required. If you must make use of a filler strip remove the cabinet that you are using of the rest. Attach a straightedge to the wall of the closest installed unit, stretching far enough to allow you to place aligning marks on the back of the wall. Set an inch or 3/4″ gap between the lines (for how thick the piece of filler) and attach a cleat on the wall. Install and fasten the cabinet that you have removed and determine the gap between the frame of its face as well as the wall.
When the walls are level just rip the filler board in the required size and secure it on the wall. In the event that your wall’s shape is uneven and you’ll need to scribe-fit the board. Begin by setting a mark with a compass that is the size of the gap. Next, put a piece made of 1″-wide masking tape over the filler board, in the space that needs to be cut. Fix the board onto the of the cabinet’s frame and draw the wall’s contour with the compass. Then, remove the board and cut it along the scribe line using the jigsaw, and then install it again to test the alignment. Once it’s in place you can insert screws from the face frame and into the edges of the filler board. Attach the opposite side of the board onto the cleat.
Now the Kitchen cabinet assembly is completed. If you have purchased matching crown molding , or other accessories, they can be installed easily. Based on the fact that you needed to put shims on the cabinets that are base and if so, you’ll need to put in certain trim pieces on the toe kicks in order to cover the gaps created by the shims on the bottom of cabinets in the kitchen.